|Toasty Toes Mary Jane Slippers Pattern|
Toasty Toes Mary Jane Slippers
These fit a toddler size 7 quite loosely but not dangling loose prior to felting (see photo). They fit with toe wiggling room after felting. For what it's worth, felting was done in washer with lukewarm water.Materials List
4, U.S. size 9 dpns (double pointed needles)
Less than 50 grams of chunky yarn
(The variegated ones were made with Plymouth Galway Chunky Paint (bulky weight), (see below for other options)
(or, 2 complete snap closures or, velcro closures)
Cast on 3 sts
(You will be working in the round so be sure stitches are not twisted and connect stitches by continuing on with the work and not turning)
Place marker to indicate end/beginning of row. You will need to slip marker after last stitch and before working first stitch of the next round while working in the round.
k1fb onto a dpn (this will be needle 1), k1fb onto another dpn (needle 2), k1fb onto a third dpn (needle 3) -(6 sts total-2 on each needle)
k1fb in each st around - (12 sts total-4 on each needle)
needle 1 - k1, k1fb in next 2 sts, k1.
needle 2 - k1, k1fb in next 2 sts, k1.
needle 3 - k1, k1fb in next 2 sts, k1.
(18 sts total-6 on each needle)
needle 1 - k1, k1fb, k2, k1fb, k1
needle 2 - k1, k1fb, k2, k1fb, k1
needle 3 - k1, k1fb, k2, k1fb, k1
(24 sts total-8 on each needle)
work all 3 needles in k1, p1 ribbing. (24 sts total)
needle 1- k2 (the first of which will remain while the 2nd one will be used when binding off 6 sts), bind 6 sts. Place last st onto needle 2 to be worked with the others and the first st from needle 1 can be placed onto the end of needle 3. You will no longer need the marker. Work all remaining sts, including the already worked 1st st from needle one that was placed on the end of needle three (I didn’t notice any quirky issues from that stitch having the additional work) in k1, p1 ribbing following set pattern of previous rounds. At this time, the stitches may be worked straight on just two needles. (18 sts total)
Row 14 -28
Work in k1, p1 (or p1, k1-doesn’t matter as long as the ribbing pattern has been established and your row count is accurate) ribbing following pattern set by previous rounds. (18 sts total)
(The inside of the slipper should be facing you as you begin this row)Purl across
(this is actually only going to be a half row)
k 9 sts. Leave remaining 9 sts unworked. Leaving a long (10-12 inches) tail, cut yarn.
Thread end of yarn that is attached to slipper through darning needle. Fold the piece in half so that the two needles and the stitches line up and the right sides are together. Seam the two halves of the back of slipper together using the Kitchener stitch (helpful video tutorial on the Kitchener stitch).
(the strap length will vary depending on the pudginess of the intended wearer’s foot.)
Decide where you’d like the strap to be.
With outside of shoe facing you, pick up 5 sts.
slip 1st st of each row.
Work in k1, p1 ribbing (take care to p1,k1 on alternate rows).
Work in ribbing until strap reaches just beyond top edge of opposite side of slipper if wanting to use a button closure.(Feel free to use your favorite buttonhole method)
knit or purl first st, bo 3 sts, knit or purl last st. Turn.
knit or purl first stitch, cast on 3 stitches, knit or purl last stitch. Work 1-2 more rows. Bind off.
If using snaps or velcro closures, measure to midway on the opposite side of slipper and bind off
(the off-white ones were made with Fisherman’s yarn( aran weight), ( it being a lighter weight yarn than is the chunky, adjustments were made by making increases to 12 sts per dpn and, 12 rounds of k1 p1 rib pattern) -both the Plymouth and the Fisherman’s are 100% wool- if felting is desired, choose 100% wool yarn that is NOT superwash)
While there are many patterns for Mary Jane-type slippers available, the pattern for these slippers was created by me. I do believe I have included all details. Please, don’t hesitate to let me know if you find something amok.